Jean Schlumberger was born in 1907 in Mulhouse, France. Although he showed talent for drawing as a child, Schlumberger’s parents— prosperous textile manufacturers—steered him toward a career in weaving or finance. Following his own path, in his 20s he found a job in Paris with an art publishing company. There he became involved with avant-garde artistic circles, including the Surrealists. As a member of that group he knew Salvador Dalí, Leonor Fini, Jean Cocteau, and Man Ray. Schlumberger’s fascination with their dream-like imagery and calculated strangeness influenced his jewelry design.
During his time in Paris, Schlumberger also came into contact with Elsa Schiaparelli, the celebrated clothing designer—who was also a member of the Surrealist circle. He initially designed buttons for her garments, but went on to create many iconic pieces of jewelry for her.
During World War II, after serving in the French army until 1939, Schlumberger worked as a clothing designer for the Manhattan-based fashion house Chez Ninon. He later opened a small jewelry shop in New York with his childhood friend Nicolas Bongard. In 1942 he and Bongard both enlisted in the Free French Forces. At the war’s end, they returned to Manhattan and reopened their shop. Also, during the war Schlumberger met Lucien “Luc” Bouchage, a talented photographer and kindred spirit who would become his life partner.
In 1956, Schlumberger joined Tiffany & Co. as a signature designer. Both he and Bongard were appointed vice presidents of an independent department nestled in the Fifth Avenue flagship store’s mezzanine. At Tiffany & Co. he enjoyed total creative control over his designs and had access to the finest and rarest gemstones on the market. Schlumberger flourished in this environment, greatly benefitting from the company’s high profile and well-heeled clientele.
Throughout his career Schlumberger displayed a gift for transforming everyday objects and living creatures—particularly flowers, insects, and sea life—into abstracted yet lively designs. Most unusually, rather than making sketches and then refining them into finished designs, Schlumberger tended to produce a series of precise line drawings which explored a particular motif.
Though simply executed, these images reflect his keen intellect, unerring eye for design, and remarkable ability to adapt natural forms to suit his needs.
After selecting his favorite designs from among his initial drawings, Schlumberger would often make completed images of proposed projects to offer his clients. Beautifully finished, these presentation pieces were often treasured as works of art themselves. When his clients had chosen a final design,
Schlumberger turned the manufacturing process over to his friend and business partner, Nicolas Bongard. He employed a variety of skilled craftsmen who were adept at bringing these vibrant and innovative designs to fruition.
From the earliest days of his career, Schlumberger boasted a remarkable and faithful clientele which included aristocrats, socialites, style icons, Hollywood stars, and fashion critics and editors from both Europe and America. Among his biggest fans were Princess Marina of Kent; socialite Gloria Vanderbilt;
fashion maven Diana Vreeland; style icon Nancy “Slim” Keith; First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy, and actresses Greta Garbo, Audrey Hepburn, and Elizabeth Taylor. In many ways, Schlumberger’s jewelry embodies the wealth, glamor, and sophistication of the Jet-Set Age.
Without doubt, Schlumberger’s greatest patron was Mrs. Rachel “Bunny” Mellon. The pair met when she shopped at his second jewelry shop in Manhattan during the 1950s. Their common interests in art, nature, travel, jewelry, and French culture helped reinforce a long and enduring friendship.
Mrs. Mellon’s expansive collection of works by him is also on view at the Museum of Fine Arts, Jewels of the Imagination: Radiant Masterworks by Jean Schlumberger from the Mellon Collection.
MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS
The MFA at 255 Beach Drive NE has a world-class collection, with works by Monet, Morisot, Rodin, O’Keeffe, Willem de Kooning, and many other great artists. Also displayed are ancient Greek and Roman, Egyptian, Asian, African, pre-Columbian, and Native American art. Selections from the photography collection, one of the largest and finest in the Southeast, are on view in a gallery dedicated solely to the medium. Kristen A. Shepherd is the Executive Director. Hours: 10 am-5 pm. Mon-Wed, Fri, & Saturday, until 8 pm on Thursday, and Noon – 5 pm Sunday. The MFA Café is open 11 am to 3 pm. Tuesday-Sunday.
Regular admission: $20/adults; $15 65+, Florida educators, college students, and military; are $10/students 7+ . Children under 7 & Museum members are free. Groups of 10 or more adults pay only $14 / person and children $4 each with prior reservations. Thursday admission only $10 after 5 pm. More information, 727-896-2667 mfastpete.org.
Information courtesy of the Museum of Fine Arts St. Petersburg.